Cue Sport Group

Archive for February, 2010

Speed relates to distance. With a 3/4 hit, not only will the cue ball deflect at 25%, and the object ball at 75% of the contact speed, the object ball will travel 3 feet for every 1 foot traveled by the cue ball.

In the diagram above the cue ball was stroked with a speed that would send it 4 feet. When it hits the object ball (a 3/4 hit) the object ball is sent 3 feet, and the cue ball 1 foot. The distance is equal to the percentage ratio (3 /1 ft. = 75/25%.)

You can test this for yourself. Put an object ball on the head spot. Place the cue ball between the object ball and the head rail so that the inside edge of the cue ball is lined up as shown below. The inside edge of the cue ball is lined up to intersect a point 3/4 the distance from the outside edge of the object ball (25% from the inside edge.) If this is confusing, just set up as shown below.
Stroke the cue softly with a center ball hit. Drive the object ball 3 feet, and then measure the distance the cue ball traveled after the hit. It should be 1 foot.

If you drive the object ball 6 feet with this same set-up, the cue ball should travel 2 feet (6/2=3/1 ratio, or 75/25).

A good way to approach the table for your shot is to first look at possible safeties. This assures that you will not get so involved in thinking offense that good defense is never considered. Once you see a good safety, only then analyze the balls for an offensive attack. If you train yourself to look for good safeties, it will become automatic.
With the 8-ball in the open a failed attempt to pocket your ball will cost you the game. Go to the short rail using a very soft center-ball hit. If the object ball is frozen, the cue ball must drift to the rail after contact (or you must drive the object ball to another rail (which would be dumb.) If the object ball is not frozen, either the object or cue ball must go to the rail after contact. The key to this shot is speed. It requires a hit slightly harder than it takes to get to the object ball. If you pull it off (and you can do it easily with practice) you will hook your opponent tightly behind your ball and get ball in hand when he misses the 8-ball, or at the least a good second chance to sink your ball from a better position should he manage to hit it. Variations of this shot come up frequently. Try moving the cue straight back (toward the detail insert) to create more challenging angles off the short rail.

The Open Bridge
Some people have a lot of difficulty making a closed bridge. It does require supple joints in the fingers and wrist. Additionally, there are shots where a closed bridge is not the best choice, such as when shooting off the rail, over balls, or reaching for balls. In these situations the open bridge is preferable. Many (if not most) snooker players use the open bridge exclusively because aiming is so important and the open bridge offers an unbroken line of sight down the shaft. Many top pool players also prefer the open bridge for the same reasons.

5) Start with the same hand position described in figure #1.

6) Now, instead of wrapping the index finger around the shaft, simply raise the end of the thumb to create a “V” between the thumb and index finger and you have completed open bridge.

7) To raise the tip of the stick, simply pull the fingers in and cup the palm. To lower the tip of the stick, flatten the palm.

I have seen some shooters fold their fingers (except for the pinky) under as shown. I do not know why and I think it is a bad idea, but enough shooters use this bridge to show it.