Cue Sport Group

Posts Tagged ‘how to’

Many top players suggest that the use of side spin (right or left english) is not critical to shooting good pool. I agree. Most of what can be achieved with side spin can be accomplished with top or bottom, if there is a clear path to the position point. However, knowledge of side spin can offer alternative “paths” to the position desired if the preferred path is blocked.

It is not the spin alone that makes it possible to alter tangents and rebound angles. It is the combination of spin and speed that makes the possibilities infinite. Consider the following:

1) Using top spin will bend a tangent path forward.

2) Bottom will bend the tangent path backward.

3) Shooting hard will close the rebound angle off the rail.

4) Shooting easy will widen the rebound angle off the rail.

By combining the appropriate top or bottom spin with the right speed, the shooter can send the cue ball off the object ball to about any place on the table, assuming interfering balls can be avoided.

The Open Bridge
Some people have a lot of difficulty making a closed bridge. It does require supple joints in the fingers and wrist. Additionally, there are shots where a closed bridge is not the best choice, such as when shooting off the rail, over balls, or reaching for balls. In these situations the open bridge is preferable. Many (if not most) snooker players use the open bridge exclusively because aiming is so important and the open bridge offers an unbroken line of sight down the shaft. Many top pool players also prefer the open bridge for the same reasons.

5) Start with the same hand position described in figure #1.

6) Now, instead of wrapping the index finger around the shaft, simply raise the end of the thumb to create a “V” between the thumb and index finger and you have completed open bridge.

7) To raise the tip of the stick, simply pull the fingers in and cup the palm. To lower the tip of the stick, flatten the palm.

I have seen some shooters fold their fingers (except for the pinky) under as shown. I do not know why and I think it is a bad idea, but enough shooters use this bridge to show it.

The Closed Bridge

1) First, place your hand flat on the table. Turn your hand so that your fingers are pointing toward one o’clock. (These photos were taken from the side. Your view will be different.)

2) Lay the stick across your thumb knuckle, and across the second knuckle of your middle finger.

3) Now try to curl your index finger around the shaft, and spread your fingers. This may be the most difficult part since some people find that their joints are too stiff. But, keep trying. It may take a little practice, but in time you will be able to do it.

4) Now, simply slide your thumb up to the tip of your index finger, creating a complete circle around the shaft. Keep the cue stick as level as possible to the surface of the table. Now, straighten your arm as much as possible. Try to lock your elbow. Your hand will have to turn counter clockwise. This will tighten the grip around the shaft, so be prepared to loosen the grip by adjusting your index finger.

The stick should slide easily through your fingers, but still be held firmly. If the shaft does not slide smoothly, you might need hand chalk, or try a pool glove.

Bottom english is applied by spreading the fingers out and as flat as possible on the table.

To shoot a center cue hit, cup your palm by pulling the fingers toward the heel of your hand.

What you will need:
•Cue tip
•Razor blade
•Cyanoacrylic glue preferrably in a gel form ie Duro-gel, Superglue Gel, Loctite 454
•60-80 grit sandpaper
•Paper towel
•400-600 grit sandpaper

What to do:
1. Remove what’s left of the old tip with the razor blade.
2. Sand top of ferrule flat with 60-80 grit sandpaper.
3. Sand bottom of cue tip with the same sandpaper till rough.
4. Apply a light coat of glue to both the ferrule and bottom of tip.
5. Carefully center the top on top of the ferrule as best as you can and hold in place for about 60 seconds.
6. With the tip down, carefully trim the excess overhang to make the tip flush with the ferrule.
7. Gently wet the sides of the tip and burnish with the 400-600 grit sandpaper.
8. Shape the tip to your desired radius.
9. To keep your tip from popping off prematurely, it is best to let the glue cure overnight before final trimming and sanding

Note: It’s recommended to get a tip that’s bigger than your ferrule.